Glacier National Park

For a little while, Glacier National Park seems a bit underwhelming.

You enter from West Glacier, and then begin to drive down the Going-to-the-Sun road. There are a few mountains in the distance, a beautiful lake, a lot of trees. And you think, “Sure. This is pretty. But, I mean, people don’t shut up about this place. I don’t really get it.”

And then you take a turn. You go up a hill. And there they are. A hundred mountains in every direction. Towering over you and under you as far as you can see in the hazy sunlight of a forest fire summer.

“Oh,” you say. “Oh, I get it now.”

There were trails and rivers and bears and miles and miles of true wilderness, waiting for those few still brave enough to get out in it. People often ask where I’d go back to, or what my favorite part of the trip was. And it’s a genuinely impossible question. On the one hand, there is so much good in so many places.

But on the other, there’s Glacier National Park.